Some pix finally!

I like baby goats - even in the rain!

Skin care is very important -- even in Togo. Trust me -- this climate is ruinous on a girl's complexion.

Ummm, my friend Jason brought over Budweiser in a can to a cookout we had last night. SERIOUSLY?! Budweiser in can?! Do you know how long it had been since I had seen that nectar of the American gods? Look at my face. No idea how he got it here. Doggon embassy and their goodies.

This is at Kevin's apt. Baltimorons, please note "Bertha's" sticker and Maryland flag on the fridge. Once a Baltimoron, always a Baltimoron. Even in Togo.

Meg & I at Mandingue, jazz club in Lome. Some residents call it the center of the universe. I have video of the band jamming the other night & Kevin on the drums, but given how long it takes to load a picture, well. That will have to wait.

The Rain Comes

Oh glorious Togo rain! All of a sudden, the house completely darkens at 11 in the morning. I look outside and the air is full of violent dust and the palm trees are going crazy. Neighbors scurry everywhere to get their clothes off of the line and babies are crying. The temperature drops 20 degrees and rain falls. Thank god, the rainy season is here!

Go Togo!

Please read the following article written by the President of Togo and published this week in the Washington Times. Wow! PS - Togo, not necessarily the fondest of their former colonizers. . .

Ending African 'history'

By Faure GnassingbeMarch 16, 2008

French President Nicholas Sarkozy addressed "Africa's Young" in a speech at the University of Cheik Anta Diop in Dakar, Senegal, on July 26, 2007. Africans widely and roundly criticized the speech, little noted by the U.S. media, as racist and condescending. Mr. Sarkozy offered up the "accepted" litany of difficulties confronting his "wounded continent" of Africa " wars, genocides, dictators and corruption. He asserted that it was not the slave trade and/or European colonialism that gave rise to these problems, but rather, he opined, "that the African has not fully entered into history," preferring to hold on to some "mythical past" rather than launch "himself towards the future."
It would appear Mr. Sarkozy chooses to end African "history," not like Francis Fukuyama in 1989 with the fall of the Berlin Wall, but rather at African independence. He seems to argue that Africans missed this early universalization of Western liberal democracy and opted to pursue instead a return to a "golden age "of Africa that "never existed." Africans, he implies, chose Hobbes' "First Man" (solitary, poor, nasty, and brutish) over Fukuyama's "Last Man" (free, universal, just, and reasoning).
Mr. Sarkozy is curiously silent on the effects of post-independence African interaction over 50 years with the international system, including the former colonial powers. It is more in that interaction, I would argue, that we discover the genesis of the problems that Africa faces today. We, African leaders, must make an honest appraisal of this recent past, acknowledge its darkness and accept and/or assign responsibility for decisions made and/or avoided. Only then can we shine a harsh, but cleansing light on the continent's current state of affairs, permitting us to undertake necessary corrective action.
We must recognize that African states emerged from the colonial era with nascent political, economic and social institutions, an immediate and direct consequence of the colonial experience. The Cold War sent those institutions into stasis until 1989. The leaders of neither "West" nor "East" concerned themselves with the authoritarianism, corruption, stagnation or abuse that arose across Africa. With the fall of the Berlin Wall, however, Africans were asked to demonstrate immediately democracy, free markets and tolerant, open civil societies. African states were expected to emerge like Athena from the forehead of Zeus, full-grown and clad in armor " an improbable, if not impossible prospect.
Moreover, many of the challenges of the post-Cold War era African leaders are asked to address were not foreseen in the immediate post-colonial period. You need only consider the many and varied consequences of the HIV/AIDS pandemic, climate change and the globalization of trade and finance. Africa's national institutions were not, and are still not, as yet sufficiently broad, deep or flexible enough to deal effectively with this range of varied and complex issues in a systematic and timely manner.
But addressing these concerns is not simply a question of capacity building. While it is true that African leaders can affect change through coherent national institutions that bridge the gap between the state and society, providing necessary services to the people, this assumes the leader has this as an objective. All too often, African leaders, faced with the choice of building an integrated national political process and permitting it to mature or retaining personal control, have chosen control, submerging collective goals for the sake of personal advantage and interest.
Weak institutions are not in a position to constrain such a leader's ambitions and are more susceptible to facile manipulation. Many African leaders have been all too ready to resort to "neo-patrimonialism," using the institutions of the state to deliver personal favors. Rather than imbuing society with idealism and a sense of possibility and responsibility, some African leaders fostered self-serving sycophancy focused on posturing, personalities and egos without regard or concern for the nation. It is all too easy to understand why many African leaders have not seen Cincinnatus as a role model, but rather sought to cling to the perquisites and trappings of power.
Africa's greatest problem is failed leadership, in a moral not technical sense. No matter how many finely crafted International Monetary Fund/International Bank for Reconstruction and Development adjustment programs are put in place or how much development assistance donors pledge or how often "free and fair" elections are held, if this continent's leaders are not prepared to serve the needs of its people, Africa will remain Mr. Sarkozy's "wounded continent," unable to affect an exodus from its plagues.

Papa came to Togo -- and you can too!

Quick post while on acceptable internet connection (thank you embassy) -- Papa came to Togo on a last minute trip and stayed for a month!  And he is alive!  And he had fun!  See, not so hard?  

On another note -- I have no idea where the last 20 some-odd letters I have written have ended up.  It makes me a bit sad because life here is at the point where things aren't so foreign and so neat stuff doesn't stand out anymore.   

All I can do is try and be better about posting on here myself and forgo the letters home.

I love Togo, I am here to stay (for the next 2 years anyway).

hy

Amerika!

Ok, I am home in the US and will therefore be hunting down the last several letters I sent home to post on here and pictures too. Yeah internet! It is quite odd to be here. I am happy to see my friends and family but already miss the sounds of fufu being prepared, the Fanmilk honk, people balaying, etc. etc. I won't go so far as to say I miss the yovo song. Well, maybe a little.

Merry Christmas! Will get my usual cell number turned on today. Give me a call and buy me dinner!

Kisses,

hy

Amoebas

OK computer just ate everything I typed. Short version: got amoebas, got really sick, hve good days and bad days wondering if I should stay. Someone please proofread previous entries and correct grammar and spelling. It is killing me. Am coming home for Christmas. Please send cumin, bay leaves, mint and cilantro seeds.
Sorry, computers here make and already grumpy person grumpier.
love,
heather

August 13, 2007

So typical day at the saltmines. Got up, didn't bathe, found a 1940's turban of Mama's the kids were playing with in the dirt, crafted a fabulous outfit to match (Chanel red lipstick included) went to school (interspersed with general greeting and village excitement about my fabulous attire with the turban) learned stuff, missed 2nd class with an incredibly gratifying phone call from Mom & Dad, left school to be greeted by a full speed ahead run from the boys from my neighborhood screaming my name (I live 15mins from the school, they've never gone there and waited for me before), hung out with my boy posse for the rest of the walk home, stopped in a coutourjer (seamstress) shop to say hi and they started asking advice on the business, had a meeting with them on how to calculate REVENUE-EXPENSES=PROFIT, hard to teach an illiterate audience, but it worked. Came home finally, Mama freaked out because I wore her filthy hat with a Versace stomp (they call it "Miss Togo" as in "Louise, Louise nous voulous "Miss Togo") sat down to eat after some general revelry with the 20 kids that followed me home only to hear wailing from the 9 year old cousin who lves here half the time. "What's wrong" I ask. "She drank sodabi" was the reply. At which point I FREAK OUT. Sodabi is moonshine that could double as industrial cleaner/biodiesel fuel of the future. "Who in the hell gave her sodabi? Do you know how bad that is for children???" Everyone in the courtyard is cracking up. She found the sodabi and drank it on her own and now she is butt wasted. Honestly at this stage, around and still wailing because she got yelled at for drinking in the first place. I told her to try to make herself barf and lay down. Stay tuned for the next episode. Did I mention that I freaking love it here? I was made for this stuff.

Some day later-

So after, like, intense impatience for this artificial school-world known as "Stage" to be over, my girlfriends and I aside- we are the only girls/people out of 20 of us to
a. drink beer
b. talk about sex
c. be fun

Tonight we tried to name ourselves-since we are four, we decided on "(No) Sex in Togo" Apparently, I am a mixture of 1/2 Charlotte, 1/2 Samantha- totally accurate though I would have appreciated some Carrie fashion sense and some Miranda "know-it-all, get shit done" kind of tude, but hey, I can't be all 4 characters now can I? Carolyn is awesome and sort of from DC(Love OLD BAY) doesn't shave, is totally loud, and fun, and brash, and a professional cheerleader- hello- see a fit?? Kate is from Oregon, hippy ass lit professor mom, Middlebury College, urban planning degree from UT and dry as hell and honest and wonderful. We three are bitches. And then there is Megan- sweet sweet Megan- bad ass vintage trash digging awesome eye for color clothes wearing former high-end bedding designer from Chicago. Yes Gibran- we will all party together in Chi-town. Those are my girls. My friends, my sanity. God how I love you. P.S. If I do say so, and you know I will, we are all pretty. We are like the "Mean Girls" of Peace Corps. Dude, that's like a novel title right there. Love it. Or Heathers for those of you of my generation.

Later same night- to all future generations of Peace Corps Volunteers, NEVER, EVER underestimate the power of the hokey pokey. Seriously, If you are ever in a tight situation, teach a crowd of people that and you are golden for life.

Personal shout out continued.

6. Tasha- Thank you so much for your card and letter. I am so happy things are going well in your new job. It is true, everything happens for a reason. I am also happy to hear the car is doing well. I loved that car so much so I am pleased to know it is in good hands. I hope Brooke & Patrick are happy and healthy as well.

7. MDP Peeps- a. Debbie , my mom told me you are putting my letters on my blog THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! I want to hear all of the goings on's at MDP. Fill me in!!! I miss the people and am curious to know how my accounts are doing but I am so far removed, it seems like light years ago. Even good old Baltimore political gossip would be great. Is Sheila Dixon still mayor? When is the race? Who is running? Is Keifer in the mix? How is Ed Hale? What is he up to? Do you ever see my dear Julie @ Maryland Art Place? How is Genny? I need Hampden updates!! Any Happy Hours? Pat Dugan? Are you well my dear? Give me office gossip and gripes and stuff. lee still tan and Leigh still Republican?? How are everyone's kids and marriages???

8. Julie Ann, my love. How are you? I miss you. MAP well? Any news there? Gossip? I think about you often and hope you are doing well. I am worried about you. How is Stefan? please tell me what is happening. How is your family? How does it feel to be married?

9. Bond & Lancaster peeps (except for Lipika & Andy) shame on you!! No letters? I need to know what is happening and I need Bill and Alex silly/wise words. Everyone gearing me up for the wedding of Gary & Suzie? Oh shoot- it just happened, well how was it?? Seth & Shannon, Terry's going away, Scott & Courtney, Alan & Jill- I need pictures, and gossip. I watch Jacque & Craig's Fell's Point documentary and cry. I miss you guys and I miss the hood.

10. Gibran- where is your globe trotting ass now? I need your wittiness. What are you thinking about? What is on your mind? How's Life? I need to know.

So totally random letter. Granola bars, conditioner, witch hazel, shelf bra tank tops and cute Forever 21 dresses are always welcome! Oops, beef jerky too- need protein big time! Gossip mags, Baltimore mags too. Much love as always. I am very happy here, but miss you too.

Love always,

Heather

Oh and used DVD's are great as well, chick flicks, documentaries, classics, TV shows- whatever. Anthropologie catalogs and cool ones like that! Fashion mags too please.