Thursday, December 17, 2009

i am a country mouse


after today's uproarious display of bumpkin-ness, i think i have finally solved my personal dilemma of whether i am a city mouse or a country mouse.

after 2 days in dc, i have finally realized that baltimore is a lot of wonderful things, but it is not a city.

i just walked 3 miles to get groceries with one of those city-people grocery carts. these carts are not all made alike. do not buy the first one you see from a cheap chinese import store. i fell on my laden cart in the middle of the street at least 3 times, spilling all of my groceries. this never would have happened in baltimore because i had a car and the grocery stores had parking lots. cities do not have grocery stores with parking lots. cities barely even have grocery stores period.

this is a great time for such as important revelation given that i am about to embark on a career that will have me living in every capitol city in the world. crap. i am a country mouse with no hope of living in the country for the forseeable future. awesome.
and don't buy the above grocery cart. it sucks (that or i don't know how to drive it. probably the latter.)

Thursday, November 19, 2009

why?

i don't blog anymore because they won't let me cut and paste. you see, i have no original thought. i have about 15 started posts that got nowhere because of this problem.
if someone can help me the situation will change.
i have much to say.
thank you and good night.
hy

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Future Diplomat Life

I was already quietly concerned about this:
http://diplodocus.wordpress.com/2006/08/12/the-solitary-service/
A sacrifice I guess. . .

Sunday, August 30, 2009

The New Ideal Morning


Someone please explain how people can live in an area where there is no scrapple.

The New Ideal, my fave

Half chipped beef, half sausage gravy, side of scrapple


Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Temping


So, what do y'all think about temping?

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Food Dreams: Where Are They Now? (vh1 style)

"I can't do footnotes or copy and paste on here. That is annoying". That would have simply been a footnote.





But food notes, that's what we're looking for. So, let's go back to the latest food dream, so see if I visited or my deflated budget and low motivation hadn't quite gotten me to my food fantasies yet.





Edo Sushi: haven't made it back there. Haven't been downtown too much. Visited the old office. Said "hi", but then no one ever called for happy hour so, never made it to the downtown spots. Jeez, I mean, I worked there for 10 years. "Welcome Home!". Or not.




Pazo: Oh yesireebob. Yum. Have eaten some tonno and lots of other goodies. Who can stay away? Honestly though, all the elderflower is a bit much. Make me a good old school dirty martini and walk away. Thank you. Ugh. Fancy drinkdom. Yuck.







Charleston: No. Come on, I just left the Peace Corps. Jeez. Are YOU going to take me there?





Miss Shirley's: No. Looks busy though.



Parents' back yard: Yes. Crabs, cheese, wine, delicious things.

The rest: No, not yet. Hope to make it to a BBQ before summer is over on the sidewalks of Bond Street.

One-Eyed Mike's: They are a special category. I have eaten there 5 times since I've been home. Dude - that is more than the

New Ideal -- that is saying something! I walk in there - it can be 8am - and they're like "soft shells?" and I say "yes" and there you go. Coffee, ice water with lemon, soft shells, 2 sides. Easy.

One-Eyed Mike's is consistently delicious. Honest, fun, straightforward always great food. Plus, it is on Bond St.

More later on food.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

I miss Louise; also I, Miss Louise

Daniel and I - I am sharing Pop Rocks with him.

I miss Louise. For those who don't know, I am Louise whenever I am in a non-anglophone part of the world. It is my middle name and Heather is just impossible to say unless you are from Great Britain, the US, or Australia & New Zealand. They can't even say it in Ghana.

I have been toldthat I am a different person when I am Louise -- nicer, chiller, friendlier. Maybe it is just the speaking French part that makes me happy, I don't know.

Nonetheless, I have been getting emails from my companions in Notse. Daniel and Desire were like my sons/little brothers/students. They were at my house every day, we played, we worked, we read, we drew, we studied, we explored.

Here is the email I just received from Desire, he is about 13:

"Bonjour Louise ;comment ca va. C'est vrai que tu nous a quitte mais tu resteras sans mon coeur pour toujours.Depuis ton depart je suis reste en tristesse. Lorsque je me rapelle de nos petit jeux dans ta maison; les larmes viennent dans mes yeux.Ma mere te salut.S'il te plait envoie moi sa photo par ordinateur pour voir ton visage car tu me manque beaucoup.

JE T'AIME LOUISE. De la part de Desire."

Translation:

"Hello Louise, how are you? It is true that you have left us but you will remain in my heart forever. Since your departure I remain in sadness. When I remember our little games at your house tears come into my eyes. My mother sends her greetings. Please send me a photo via computer so that I can see your face because I miss you so much.

I love you Louise.

On behalf of Desire."

Isn't that so sweet. I miss my boys.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Food Dreams

Since I am counting down to coming home, here are the foods/restaurants I am dreaming about. All my foodie friends, please tell me if any of these have gone downhill and of any new places I haven't been yet. . .
Edo Sushi (Harbor) - lunch combos
Pazo - tonno crudo and foccaccio
Charleston - she-crab soup, foie gras, oysters, shrimp grits
Miss Shirleys - anything with fried oysters and softshells, grits, sweet potato fries
Parents' back yard - crabs, corn on the cob, tomatoes
Holy Frijoles? - chimichanga, chips and salsa
Broadway Market - fried chicken livers & gizzards with hot sauce, soft-shell sandwich
Lexington Market - oysters, clams
Anything Heidi cooks. . .
Grill out on the corner of Bond & Lancaster
Anything from One-Eyed Mike's
Suggestions?

Friday, May 22, 2009

Banks of the Chesapeake

I have always loved a song called "Banks of the Pontchartrain" by Nancy Griffith. One lonely night over a year ago I was laying in my bed in Notse, no electricity, listening to it on my ipod and the lyrics magically changed themselves into something much more personal. With permission, here is my adaptation of the song. It makes me weepy every time I hear it.

I'm goin' back where my garden blooms all year
Where the wintertime speaks softly in the fallin' rain

I'm goin' back to my friends and family there
and we will dance along the banks of the Chesapeake

Oh, I've grown dark beneath the skys of Africa
Where the voices ring like bells in French and Minah
And the heat melts the body all year long

I am alone at night and dream of my own Chesapeake

Chorus:
Take me to the airport...
I am late to catch my eastbound plane
Oh, I'm gonna call my sister Heidi
she will be waiting by the gate when I fly in
I'm gonna fly across the ocean
just to stand beside my Chesapeake again

These old rails shake like thunder through the night
Soon I'll have my family's arms to comfort me
Oh, I can see my sister Heidi by their side
her hair will flow in waves like on the Chesapeake

Take me to the airport...
I am late to catch my eastbound plane
Oh, I'm gonna call my sister Heidi
she will be waiting by the gate when I fly in
I'm gonna fly across the ocean
just to stand beside my Chesapeake again

I'm goin' back where my garden blooms all year
Where the wintertime speaks softly in the fallin' rain
I'm goin' back to my green eyed lover there
and we will dance along the banks of the Chesapeake
yes, we will dance along the banks of the Chesapeake
we will dance along the banks of the Chesapeake
and here comes the plane


I can't wait to be home for fall and winter. I miss you.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

And more stuff of late

Gee, so much is going on, too much to say, too public to say it all. I passed the Foreign Service Orals, moved to another part of Lome, the fancy part actually, where things like this happen in the wee hours of Easter barbeques. We didn't even hear the shots.

Togo leader's brother in shootout
A security raid on a house belonging to the brother of the Togolese president left at least two people dead and three others wounded, reports say.
A BBC reporter in Togo says security forces exchanged fire on Sunday night with troops loyal to the president's brother, Kpatcha Gnassingbe.
Following the shootout in a Lome suburb officials accused President Faure Gnassingbe's brother of coup plotting.
He denied the charges and said he was the victim of an assassination attempt.
Prosecutors said five senior military officers had been arrested.
Former Defence Minister Kpatcha Gnassingbe is now under house arrest.
He told the BBC that armed men in military uniform had turned up at his home spraying bullets at his bedroom and the bedrooms of his children during the gun battle, which lasted at least three hours.
President Gnassingbe, who was elected in 2005 during a vote which observers said was flawed, cancelled a foreign trip on Sunday after the shootout.
He became president after the death of his father, Togo's veteran leader Gnassingbe Eyadema in 2005.
(from BBC)
The weirder thing is no one here is talking about it. Like, at all. Ho-hum, just another day.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Oops, one more thing

Did you know that there is a Hari Krishna temple down the road from my house? (Of course you don't, you don't live here, duh) I have never actually gotten the nerve to go and talk to them to simply ask "how in the heck did you people get here??". Then again, I have never heard the chanting or seen the yellow robes, so maybe it is a cover for something. Hmmmmm. . . .
Poll:
Should I go and see what is up? At least take some pictures with some Togolese Hari Krishnas? Let me know if anyone would find that remotely fascinating.

Countdown. . .

Quick post:
I leave for America in 8 days to take the Foreign Service Oral Exam, so consult the ancestors, burn some incense, or pray to your gods to send good fortune my way.
I am nervous as heck!
Peace out.
PS - KB keeps promising me that he will upload all of the pictures from South Africa and various other escapes of late. Hopefully I can post some soon.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

PETA in Togo

Jim & friends,
I am so glad you brought up PETA because it remnds me of a story here that I otherwise might not have remembered to tell. In the village/town in which I used to live, Notse, I worked with a nice and sensitive man named Sylvan for an AIDS-awareness and cultural preservation youth group as well as his orphan-support NGO.
Sylvan had a regular job at the prefect's (local mayor, sort of) office and also had a peanut field which he cultivated himself and got single mothers to help harvest and they could keep half of what they harvested. He is a good and thoughtful man, anxious to help those less fortunate than he. He is also much more broad-minded than most Togolese I have had the pleasure to meet.
One day I invited Sylvan over for lunch -- a stew with rice, ginger, cabbage, carrots, and. . . chicken. Sylvan informed me that he was a vegetarian. I started laughing. First of all, I was blown away that he would even know that people in world WERE vegetarians, and secondly (and most importantly), this in a country where most people don't ever even SEE meat, and not for religious or moral reasons, but because they simply can not afford it. The diet consists of completely empty carbs in the form of a manioc-type tuber and cooked down okra and lots and lots of spicy peppers.

I asked Sylvan why in the world he would even dream of becoming a vegetarian. Well, somehow, somewhere he had watched a PETA DVD explaining the horrific process of animal farming and butchering -- in the western world. Here (and probably in a majority of the rest of the world), ALL chickens, goats, sheep, and cows are "free-range". Even in the capitol. Goats and chickens and sheep wander the streets. Somehow they know to which compund to return at night and all people know which animal belongs to whom. When it comes time for an animal to be killed, it is done with ceremony and a blood offering is given to the ancestors in the ground. I have killed chickens and pintades myself -- it is the only way to get fresh meat.

Even the smallest child knows the animal that dinner came from (not that a child would ever get meat anyway, or women either, for that matter) and that child probably also gutted, plucked, etc. happily fighting over the feet or some other delicacy.
I explained to Sylvan that in the West people buy their meat in plastic packages in the grocery store. No one has any contact or hand in the raising of that animal, and certainly not in the killing of it. It is not respected as a life-form, it is simply a commodity you pick up at the store when you stop in to grab your Lucky Charms.

Sylvan was not a wealthy or frivolous man. Honestly, though a full-grown man and strong, he needed the protein. Yeah, he ate his peanuts, but people here that aren't eating meat aren't exactly up to date on getting the right proportion of legumes and rice or whatever to make up the missing protein. I convinced him to drop the silly vegetarianism idea and if he was really concerned about his soul regarding animal treatment he should get people to stop throwing stones at dogs and start a rabies vaccination and spay and neuter campaign.
In summation, animal welfare concern with regard to killing for consumption and sacrifice is just plain silly here. When an animal is sacrificed, it is quickly killed with an expert slash across the throat and it's departing spirit is asked to send a message to the ancestors. It is thanked for it's assistance and for the sustenance it will soon provide. A sacrificed animal is eaten, whether by the preist conducting the sacrifice or by the person requesting the sacrifice.
I know in the United States and other little pockets of the western world where there are still vestiges of voodoo, organizations like PETA cry foul about animal cruelty, but in all honesty, to sacrifice an animal and then eat it is much less cruel than buying a chicken breast in the store.
All that being said, I am a carnivore. I eat foie gras and veal and lamb and sweetbreads and every other politically incorrect meat that has the poor judgement to wander my way.
I hope this message didn't come off as being aggressive, but I thought the Sylvan/PETA story was germane. I thought it truly was one of the most hilarious things I had ever heard here. And as for how that video even GOT here. . .
This was taken 4th of July 2007, a month after arriving in country. We made fried chicken for our celebration.
Killing the chicken for the 4th of July

"Free-range" sheep in NotseGratuitous picture of doing the hokey-pokey with kids in Badou

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

To Voodoo or not to Voodoo. . .

So I have been considering going to a feticheur and paying for a voodoo ceremony and a chicken to sacrifice, etc. etc. to give me a better chance to pass the Orals and beyond. I figure you only live in Togo once (OK, maybe not. I feel like I have been reincarnated here like 8 times already) and it will make a good story later on in life. I love learning about voodoo, so I figure I ought to put my money where my mouth is, you know?
The only concern is: once you do a ceremony and make a sacrifice, are you further beholden to the voodoo gods and therefore vulnerable in the future or can you go on your merry way?
Thoughts?

Thursday, January 8, 2009

The Ocean Bards

I got an update from Dr. Hahn, my former English professor at Towson. I helped him on a book (click the link to go to the publisher's page) when I went back to school and it is published! I'm in the acknowledgments and if anyone ever has any questions on British Naval poetry in the Napoleonic era then I am your girl:)

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

New York Times Article

Will post later about the rest of South Africa and life in general, but found a new article on the Foreign Service. I hope this bodes well for my Orals in March. . .

December 21, 2008
Hiring Window Is Open at the Foreign Service
By EILENE ZIMMERMAN
A RARE bright spot has appeared in a job landscape dominated by layoffs: the Foreign Service.
For the last several years, hiring in the United States Foreign Service was minimal because of a lack of Congressional funding. In addition, war has created an urgent need for diplomatic personnel in Iraq and Afghanistan, and as officers have moved to these countries their previous jobs have remained unfilled.
So, in the last several months — with a new president on the horizon and new funding from Congress — both the State Department and the United States Agency for International Development, or Usaid, are ramping back up.
A supplemental war funding bill, which became law in June, has provided money for Foreign Service hiring. And President-elect Barack Obama “has talked explicitly about the need to increase the Foreign Service and we hope he will make that a priority,” said John Naland, president of the American Foreign Service Association, the professional association and labor union representing career diplomats.
The State Department has asked for funding for 1,500 new positions for the current fiscal year. Of these, roughly 800 are Foreign Service and 700 civil service, said Luis Arreaga, director of recruitment, examination and employment at the department. Many of those positions are being filled because of attrition but about 160 are new. "We consider that a down payment,” said Mr. Arreaga.
Felix Salazar, hired as a junior officer by the State Department in September, said that during the interview process he felt “a sense of urgency, that they were actively hiring and really valued my experience.” Mr. Salazar, who spent three years in the Peace Corps, leaves in February for his first posting, in South Africa.
Not everyone is cut out for Foreign Service work, which can be stressful and highly demanding. About two-thirds of a diplomat’s career is spent overseas; officers usually move every two to four years and can be exposed to dangers like disease and war. The State Department offers a suitability quiz for prospective applicants on its Web site.
Yet career diplomats like Ronald E. Neumann, a former ambassador to Afghanistan who now heads the American Academy of Diplomacy, called it the best job in the world. “I enjoy what I’m doing now but it’s nothing like working on foreign policy,” he said. “In my 37 years of service I may have gone home tired or frustrated with how a decision came out, but I never went home and asked myself if what I was working on was worthwhile.”
Applying for a job with the State Department involves written and oral examinations. Those who pass the oral exam become conditional officers and receive a ranking score based on oral-exam performance and language skills. The higher the rank, the sooner they will be assigned.
Of the 12,000 to 15,000 people who register annually for the written exam, about 450 officers are hired, said Frank J. Coulter, management officer with the Foreign Service and a member of the State Department’s board of examiners.
The first time he took the written exam, Mr. Salazar failed, after running out of time during the essay portion. He was so determined to pass that he spent the next year writing an essay in 30 minutes every day. “When I took it the second time and got my results, it actually sent chills down my spine,” he said.
New Foreign Service officers at the State Department choose one of five career tracks: consular affairs, economic affairs, management affairs, political affairs or public diplomacy. No matter the track, all entry-level officers spend their first several years working in a consulate, interviewing applicants for United States visas and working with American citizens who need their help.
The State Department also hires Foreign Service specialists, who provide technical, security and administrative support overseas or in Washington. Specialists must pass an oral assessment but not a written exam, and start in a specialty like medicine, information technology or law enforcement, Mr. Coulter said. All newly hired officers and specialists are trained at the Foreign Service Institute in Washington.
Each of the first two postings overseas last two years; after that, it is generally a three-year posting in each country. One-year hardship postings — in a region too dangerous to allow an officer’s spouse and children to accompany him or her — are required at least twice in the course of a career. After two assignments, Foreign Service personnel can bid on postings — requesting particular countries or Washington — but everyone is expected to serve in a variety of assignments, Mr. Arreaga said.
Usaid’s entry-level Foreign Service officers must have a master’s degree in an appropriate technical area, like economics, agriculture, public health or education. The average Usaid entry-level officer has four years of relevant experience; many come from the Peace Corps, but others have worked for nongovernmental organizations, in private industry or the military.
Thousands apply to Usaid each year and about 1 in 20 will be called for an interview, said Susan Riley, Usaid’s chief of Foreign Service personnel.
Foreign Service officers with Usaid work on a range of projects, like assisting farmers in developing countries or working in programs to reduce the prevalence of diseases like AIDS, malaria and tuberculosis.
Last year, the agency kicked off its Development Leadership Initiative, a recruitment effort to hire more than 1,000 Foreign Service officers in the next two years. “This is the most that we’ve planned to hire above attrition in 15 years,” Ms. Riley said.
THE base salary for entry-level Foreign Service officers ranges from about $40,000 to $72,000 annually, but compensation can increase depending on the danger level of the posting and on a region’s cost of living.
For Foreign Service specialists, the salary range is anywhere from about $26,500 to more than $100,000; for civil service employees at Usaid, the salary ranges from $16,500 to over $100,000. Overseas benefits include housing and private school for dependent children.
Many of those choosing Foreign Service work do so out of a dedication to public service and see it as not just a career, but also a way of life.
Salman Khalil, hired in May, took a 50 percent cut in take-home pay to join the Foreign Service after a decade in the I.T. industry. Any day now he will leave for his first assignment, in India. “In my I.T. profession I was helping big companies make more money and it wasn’t satisfying for me,” he said. “What I wanted to do was serve in a capacity where I could directly help people.”
This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: December 28, 2008 An article last Sunday about renewed hiring in the Foreign Service referred incompletely to one of five career tracks that new Foreign Service officers at the State Department can choose. It is public diplomacy — which involves working with the media and foreign audiences to promote understanding — not diplomacy.