More SA

After 5 days in Jo'burg, we are getting ready to head to Cape Town. Jo'burg is an interesting place -- the entire downtown is, for intents and purposes, completely depopulated. All major businesses, hotels, and homes have been abandoned. As in the Ritz just shuttered and chained their doors and simply left. It is quite weird. We kept asking people where was a cool neighborhood to walk around and hang out and they just kept looking at us like we were speaking a foriegn language. The population lives in high security suburbs, completely segregated. There is really no where to walk around and you don't see many people on the street. We stayed about a block away from a cool block that was walkable with great bars and restaurants. We later learned that was practically the only place in the suburbs like it. . . We were watching TV one evening and stumbled upon a show about the block we were staying on -- in Afrikaans. Kind of like Melrose Place in Jo'burg.
Yesterday we went on an amazing safari and saw a huge selection of birds and mammals. Cheetah, giraffe, lions, hippos, sacred ibis, bee-eaters, swallows, marabou stork, african fish eagle, snake eating eagle, zebras, warthog family, blue wildebeest, impalas, waterbuck, kudu, etc. It was lovely.
Getting on the train today for a peaceful 2 day journey across the country to end at the sea-side.
New Year's will be on the beach in Ghana with hopes that we will be able to cross the border back into Togo. Ghana is having a run-off presidential election on the 28th and likes to close the borders. Oopsie!
Happy holidays and much love to all. We are happy to be here, but sad to be away from our families.

South Africa!

Safely in SA after what might possibly have been the most painful flight of my life. Do NOT crank up the air conditioning on a plane full of tired people who have been living on the equator for two years. Got to Joburg - we are staying in a cute B&B in an adorable neighborhood called Melville. Kind of like Fells Point, actually. Going to the MALL today! Apartheid museum is closed. . . A weird casino tonight (modeled after a Tuscan village -- should be interesting). We are going to do a safari on my birthday then board a fancy old-fashioned train on Christmas to go to Cape Town. The train traverses most of the country so apparently we can see ostriches and springbok, etc. from the window while eating ostrich steak and drinking good South African wine. I am soooo excited. The climate is lovely, cool in the mornings, hot in the afternoon, cool again in the evenings - NO humidity!
Hopefully I can get a hold of Kevin's camera and post some pictures soon.
Until then, cheers, happy holidays & I love and miss you!

IHT article

U.S. Foreign Service revamps its test for job applicants
By Tamar Lewin
Sunday, December 17, 2006
NEW YORK: The path to the U.S. Foreign Service has always been straight and narrow: The first step is the written test, perhaps the nation's leading smarty-pants exam. Since 1932, hundreds of thousands of applicants have grappled with a half-day of questions on geography, English usage, history, math, economics, culture and more.
"It's like being on a golf course," said Justin Norton, a 26-year-old who flunked the test this year and last, but wants to take it again.
"You've got all the sand traps, the water hazards. I remember I didn't understand the question about economies of scale. I remember something about Langston Hughes and the Harlem Renaissance.
"And sometimes even when I knew it, like a question about George Kennan and containment policy, I got it wrong anyway."
It is not an easy exam to study for. The State Department suggests reading a good daily newspaper for a year. There are prep books, and at places with lots of applicants, like the Fletcher School at Tufts University, maybe even a study group. But mostly, people prepare on their own, looking through a world atlas, the Constitution or the word problems they did on the SAT.
Still, the exam gets rid of most applicants. More than three-quarters of the 17,000 to 20,000 who take the exam each year flunk.
The test is more about breadth than depth. So for a question about Etruscan vases, the applicant might need to know that the Etruscans preceded the Romans in Italy, but nothing more.
Those who pass the exam go on to an oral interview, where they are hammered with questions and situations by several Foreign Service officers, and the best performer gets the job.
But now, the State Department wants to try a new approach, a bit less quantifiable. At the suggestion of McKinsey & Co., the management consultants, it plans to revamp the process to evaluate what it calls "the Total Candidate," The Washington Post disclosed last week. The written exam will stay largely the same, although streamlined and given by computer, instead of bubble sheet and bluebook. Online, the exam will be given more often, to speed the recruitment process, one of the State Department's main goals.
As applicants register for the exam, they will submit an online "structured r�sum�" describing their work experience, foreign residence, leadership experience and language abilities, among other things. Then, on the basis of the test results and r�sum�, a screening committee will decide who goes on to the oral assessment.
Some Foreign Service officers, past and present, have applauded the new approach.
"Testing people on their general knowledge, their ability to parse questions, is a poor standard for bringing people into the Foreign Service," said Mark Van Fleet, who was posted in Thailand for five years.
"You get people who are well educated, and understand the relationship of inflation and interest rates. But the test doesn't measure more important things, like good judgment," Van Fleet said.
But the change raises concerns. Some worry that adding more nonquantitative factors could open the door to political considerations, or applicants with family connections. (Note to State Department: To understand the possible complications, talk to the admissions officers at Harvard or Princeton.)
Anthony Holmes, president of the American Foreign Service Association, said he was not worried, because the factors to be considered are things like foreign experience and language ability.
"Whether you gave to a political party is not in the paradigm," Holmes said.
Others, though, are troubled by the proposed revamping, given that the Foreign Service is already so prestigious and so competitive.
"Since it's working really quite well, why make such a major change?" said Robert Gelbard, a former ambassador to Indonesia. "I have great confidence in Condoleezza Rice, but what about the law of unintended consequences? Who knows whether, some years down the road, political factors could creep in?"
And will the Foreign Service be dumbed down, given that adding factors will mean that some candidates could qualify with lower scores?
Not to worry, said Marianne Myles, director of the State Department's office of recruitment, examination and employment. There will still be a failing score, and the passing score won't drop all that much.
"The population that applies is so large - and so many of them are so qualified and smart and capable and have so many skills and abilities - that we can't take them all," she said. "Rather than sorting by one criterion, we're going to use more factors. But the very small percentage we take will still be the smartest, most qualified people representing America."
Notes:

Copyright © 2008 The International Herald Tribune www.iht.com

Foreign Service Oral Assessment

I just wanted to let everyone know that I am on to the next step in becoming a Foreign Service Officer (aka diplomat, or just plain dip).
I submitted a lenghty application (worse than Peace Corps' actually) in June I think, took the written Foreign Service Officer Assessment in July and found out I passed in September.
Since then the Qualification Evaluation Panel has been reviewing the application ( they don't look at it unless you pass the written) and checking references, etc. It is possible to pass the written and still not get invited to the Oral (common, actually).
Well, I got my invitation to take Oral exam today! I have to be in DC sometime between January 29-April 7. I schedule my test date on December 15th so I will let you know more then.
I am very excited and very proud of myself for having come this far (what? you've got be your own biggest fan:)
As for other news, am very happy and very busy in Lome working at the International School and living life. Still going to South Africa for Christmas.
Much love to all; I miss you.
Heather

Safety First

I'll have to get a picture of me in it, but I wanted to send a big sloppy thank you to Mama and Heidi for sending my the motorcyce helmet.
Now I won't die, just get a little maimed!
Thank you!

Life as I know it

A lot has happened since last post: got a job at the American School in Lome. I fill in for a few 10th grade English lit classes now and take over the class in January. I also am assiting the administration. Lots to do. . . Full time life in Lome is different now that I am not a Peace Corps volunteer. It feels a little like getting out of jail or something. I take a mororcycle taxi to and from work every day, work 9 to 5 essentially, go to the grocery store, cook, etc. etc. Some things are still the same Togo though: greeting everyone endlessly in the mornings and evenings, stepping on lizards, battling every insect imaginable, and well, it is still hotter than blazes.
All that said, I am very very happy. Kevin and I have a wonderful home, we have people over for dinner and drinks, play Scrabble, and basically just hang out. Life is good.
I didn't make it to the all-night embassy party the other night because I was ill, but KB called every 2 hours to give election updates. All in all -- Togo and I are beyond pleased with the results - Go Obama!

Bye Bye Peace Corps

For those that don't already know, I am terminating my service with Peace Corps and staying in Togo. I am super happy and relieved about my decision -- it was a long time coming. I didn't want to quit, especially after I worked so hard to get here.
I love Togo and am going to continue to work here and live in the capitol -- Lome. I got a job at the American school. My issues with my site and with Peace Corps administration were preventing me from really working and life is hard enough without effective work to do. Now I feel like I can be free to work hard, volunteer (I am looking into volunteering for Terre des Hommes, an organization that works with traffiked children), and generally be happy without bureaucracy (besides the Africa naturally-occurring kind).
My phone number is the same and my mailing address is now:
Heather Yorkston
c/o Kevin Brown
Embassy of the United States, Togo
BP 852
Lome, Togo
Am running around like crazy right now to get bank accounts closed, paperwork completed, medical care, visas transferred, etc. etc.
Du courage to me!
I love Togo and never had any intention of abandoning the country I have come to love so much. The hard part will be leaving for good in August.
Much love to all,
hy

heidi vs. broc

in the intervening time between last post and internet difficulties (5 minutes at most), a giant nut fell from the tree above me and hit me on the head. that will leave a mark. only in togo.

as promised, heidi and broccoli wrestling:

pix from america

here are some belated pix from my last days in the land of the free:

Last view of the greatest city in America. Amtrak station

Lipika, Heidi (greatest sister and friend in the world), me, and Erica and the Indigo Girls concert


Broccoli and I bonding

Unfortunately, internet is crapping out now because I have some awesome pix of Heidi vs. Broccoli wrestling match

updates

Howdy!
Quick censored update from Lome: I am OK, fou (crazy person) attacked me in Notse and I am no longer allowed back there. Oh yeah, and I have like bacterial dysentary. I think I am single-handedly keeping the people that make Cipro in business. At least I am shedding the weight I gained in America. Peace Corps Africa: the toughest diet you'll ever love.
In Lome for now while I figure out what happens next. Regardless, I am staying in Togo (and I am getting my coffin sent to Lome too -- yippee!). There's a lot of work to be done here!
I love and miss you all.
hy

Back in Togo

I am back in Togo and happier than ever! It was beyond sad to leave home and my family and all of the people that I didn't get to see, but I am returning to Africa with a renewed sense of purpose and dedication.
I missed the Togolese people so much it hurt. I missed speaking French and Ewe, even the heat and bugs are great right now. I will probably be singing a different tune once I try and get back to Notse and traverse broken bridges only to get there and discover that there is no cooking gas and I have to try and cook over charcoal. Taking 3 hours to boil water, then filter, then drink is no fun. I won't even get into trying to cook on that thing.
Regardless, this week is getting Kevin settled into his new home in Lome (holy cow, it is awesome - I will send pictures) and checking on what will hopefully be a great job with PSI (I think www.psi.org - check them out) and Peace Corps that will move me to Lome. Keep our fingers crossed.
The new NRM (Natural Resources Management) and GEE (Girls' Education and Empowerment) stage was on our flight from Paris to here, so we got to see all of the overwhelmed new faces and buy them beer:)
KB and I are overjoyed that we both brought board games back to Togo with us -- we figured out how to play the modern version of Risk last night (our friend Jake is ruler of the world, even though Kevin and I formed an alliance after we realized that as we kept fighting each other, Jake was taking over the world. Important lesson anyone?).
I truly can not express how happy I am to be back here. I really do belong. The hardest part is work and lack of structure, but I am committed to make something happen before I leave. I love this place.
Went to the Grand Marche yesterday to try and get some essentials for the house (KB can't deal with the nuttiness there, so it is up to me) (seriously, google a picture of the Grand Marche of Lome and maybe you will get an idea. Sounds and smells not included). By the end I had a giant backpack full and trying to balance a big basket on my head. Being a foreigner and carrying my business on my head like a Togolese is not a common sight. I had my own town criers ahead and behind me yelling to all of the vendors to check me out (as if they weren't already) and "hey, she speaks Ewe too". It helps with the prices though. I don't get the full yovo surcharge.
Today we have a crew at the beach bar (today is a national holiday celebrating something to do with repelling a coup attempt in the 80s led by 70 people. All I know is the banks, embassies, and Peace Corps offices are closed) so we will hang there with friends and dogs and wait for more goods that we need for the house to pass by on peoples' heads and we will buy them. Easy peasy.
Jet lag only hit me yesterday and it has been brutal leading to late nights and late mornings. Ca va aller.
I miss you, love you, etc. etc.
Peace out.

How to access Megan's site

Just click the hyperlink of the previous blog title to access her site or click here

Megan's Togo Batik

I just got an email from my darling friend Megan in Togo and she has set up a website showing some of the wares she is marketing for a batik bag maker in Kpalime, Togo. Perhaps eventually there will be a way to order online and I can help ship or bring them home. Email access is tough in Togo, but try and email her if you are interested. I have one of the bags and I love it!

Niece & Nephew

Pix of Tula Mae & I

Fletcher & Aunt Heather

Dashiell left for his first day of 1st grade today, so he wasn't there for photo time.

Drive Through America

I drove back from Kentucky by myself, stopping in Ohio to visit my dear friend Sarah Louise and her dad (my adopted grandpa), Dr. Bug at Embe Horse Farm and Happy Valley invention land.

After that, I spent the night at my parents' cabin between Gettysburg and Chambersburg, chillin in the woods. America is the most beautiful country on earth.

Mammoth Cave Pix

Just a few pix from Mammoth Cave Kentucky - it is the longest cave system in the world, but since it is dark in there, well, there aren't a lot of pictures:)

Champagne of Beers

Today - time for a haircut! The last several have been done with a Swiss Army Knife, so I think whoever the lucky stylist is may be in for a surprise.

Last night, not a glass of wine, but the champagne of beers (sorry Dad, raided the fridge and that was what was there) and movie! For the American readers, this may not sound very exciting, but trust me, these are special times.

This morning there were two crabs in the trap. Lunch coming right up!

Back in Business

Yeeehaaawww!! Made it to Harford County, got my old number hooked up (410.948.0464), ate mozzarella sticks & jalapeno poppers & went to Blockbuster. Gonna hang on the river, maybe have a glass of wine, and watch the herons, eagles, gulls, and hawks wheel around the sky. The roses and all of the flowers are blooming all over the yard, the weather is perfect and the air is fresh and American. I am one happy Marylander right now. I think I will find some good Maryland corn and crabs on the side of the road tomorrow and steam them for lunch. All by myself.
Yum.
PS - I just found out I passed the Foreign Service Written Exam today. Now I wait until December to see if I am invited to take the Oral Exam. Kind of exciting all around. Some days it is simply good to be an American in America. Today is one of them.

More France!

Yesterday we rented a convertible clown car and drove over 300k to a village outside of Poitiers to visit a friend of Kevin's family. Most of the trip was on the A10 (holy expensive tolls!) passing all of the tantalizing signs for the sights of the Loire Valley before entering into Poitou-Charentes. Sister/Mother Mary-Jean is a nun who lives in France and was visiting her sister and family on their estate. The family was lovely and welcoming and the house was absolutely beautiful. Kevin was able to bring messages of love from his Mom to Sister Mary-Jean and taped a video message. I know this means a lot to them and I was lucky to be a part of it.

We were also able to stop at Villandry, my favorite gardens

Kevin & I in the clown car outside Sister Mary-Jean's family home

Sister Mary-Jean's family's home

There were fields of sunflowers everywhere -- miles upon miles

French countryside

Paris

Paris is amazing (well, duh!). And FREEZING! I have had to buy two pairs of tights, a sweater, and a coat.

Kevin has been updating his blog with pictures and stuff. He is more diligent than I. Check here: http://www.projectkb.blogspot.com/

Went to Laon yesterday, a town about 2 hours north of Paris. It was lovely:

On the train Laon view

Laon view In the cemetary

Cracking up and falling to the ground Kevin and the cathedral

Back down the hill and celebrating Back in Paris, tired & celebrating with grodey shot

Sad Goodbyes

I had to say goodbye to one of my closest friends in country a few weeks ago, and now I have to say goodbye to another today. Four of us came in together and have been close friends since almost the beginning. A tribute to the now disbanded Pi-Pis. I will love always love you (at least more than Celine Dion). OK, that wasn't fair: more than Togo. Ok, ok: more than mozzarella sticks.

Young & naive:

Teaching Togolese children how to smear fireflies on your your skin and other PETA-riffic activities

Aren't we bien-integre?

With one in Oregon, one in Florida, me in Maryland, and the other remainer in Chicago, it will be a long time until we are together again. Ladies, you mean more to me than you will ever know.

Floods, Crises, etc. in Togo

See article below. I happen to live on the Route Nationale, the only highway in Togo. The one cut off from the capitol. The 100 km detour the giants semis are taking, yeah well, there is a tiny dirt track that cuts through my town and goes 51 km to the secondary highway that one can then take to the capitol. Imagine, semis laden Africa-style with literally all of the goods coming to and from not just Togo, but all of Burkina Faso as well add mud, lots of mud. They get a few km and tip over, it takes hours to get them out and there are hulks just sitting at the side of the path (for that truly is what is, usually used only by bicycles and motorcycles and people walking). The villages along this little-used track are freaking blown away. They have never seen so much activity. It took several interesting hours to travel 51km and all of my freshly-scrubbed ready for France luggage, etc. is COVERED in dirt. One good thing is the corn has been harvested and dried in whole area so the increase in traffic allows these people to sell their corn much more quickly and at better prices. A bowl of corn has gone from around less than $1 to over $3 because farmers can't get their product to market.
Not sure if it is good or bad that I am leaving right now, but I do know I don't want to make that trip again any time soon.
Oh, and the government said the bridges won't be fixed until around December/January. Gravy.


France assists Togo after floods kill 9, cut roads
Sat 2 Aug 2008, 13:41 GMT

By John Zodzi
LOME (Reuters) - French soldiers have been dispatched to Togo to help the tiny West African nation tackle floods that have killed nine people this week, destroyed bridges and raised some food prices due to disrupted transport.
No estimate has been given yet on the financial scale of the damage but one immediate impact was an increase in the cost of maize -- already high from the global food and fuel crisis -- as some agricultural areas are cut off from consumers.
"We have today nine victims and nine bridges down," Celestin Ekpaou Talaki, Togo's minister for public works, transport and town planning, told state television late on Friday.
The French soldiers from a peacekeeping mission in nearby Ivory Coast will repair a bridge north of the capital which has been destroyed, shutting down country's main highway, an official in the prime minister's office said.
The floods were caused by unexpected heavy rains in Togo's south, which have swollen the Hao and Zio rivers north of Lome.
On top of the roads, several sections of railway have been cut off.
Donors have held crisis meetings with the government and Togo's development minister said a way must be found to help the "thousands of people who are stuck in their homes".
Assistance from France comes after Togo's army began helping deliver food and non-food items to those in need.
Neighbouring Ghana has also offered military assistance.
Until the French engineers can help re-open the main artery to the north, transporters serving Sahel countries such as Burkina Faso, Niger and Mali will have to make a 100 km detour.
Escalating global food and fuel costs are hitting Africa's poor particularly hard as these goods make up a greater proportion of incomes than in other parts of the world.
A Reuters witness in Lome said the impact of the floods could already be seen in the markets, where the price of a cup of maize had nearly doubled, rising to 1,400 CFA francs from 850 CFA francs just three days earlier.

France & USA - Oh my!

Plans are underway for the grand trip to USA & France! I will be in Paris from August 9-17, DC 8/18-22, Kentucky/Ohio 8/23-28, AND Maryland 8/29 to 9/14 then back to Togo on the 20th. Please email me if you want to get together and hopefully I will have a cell number to give you for the States.

More Pictures!